Before we consider the best film cameras for beginners we need to ask a question. Why would you wish to shoot with a film camera when digital is so relatively cheap and immediate, and the quality is second to none?  Well there are so many reasons. Maybe you are of the generation that grew up with digital and want to experiment with analogue. Possibly you’re a wannabee Hipster and are tired with the immediacy of digital. Maybe you’re as old as dirt and remember fondly the days of taking your colour film to the local chemist for developing and printing (D&P as it was known as).

Whatever your reason, you need to get the right film camera for you.

Our 3 Nikons – what could be your best film camera for beginners?

Buy a manual camera

The first thing to look at when deciding on a film camera is the camera’s ability to do manual. Although one might think that the best film cameras for beginners would have an auto function to help you, you will not learn nearly as much about the finer points of exposure if the camera does it all for you. Not only that, but the light meters on older film cameras were not nearly as sophisticated as today’s digital cameras. They could get fooled by tricky situations very easily.  What do I mean by a manual camera? The camera must allow you to choose your own aperture and shutter speed.

What brand to buy

There are so many second-hand cameras on the market with varying prices, but the best thing to do is to stick to well-known brands and models that people and blogs recommend. The following list that I titled “best film cameras for beginners” is not definitive. These are just the main ones I recommend at varying price points.

What to look for in second hand cameras

Firstly I would recommend you buy from a local camera store. Not only will you get a small guarantee on the camera but the staff should be able to demonstrate its features. If you get an assistant who is a little over 35, you may even see a bit of a nostalgic glint in their eye. They may also be humming, “Those were the days my friend, we thought they’d never end …”! Bit more expensive than eBay but it takes the worry out the purchase.

Obviously eBay is the cheapest way to get a good deal. When the camera arrives, check all the controls work smoothly and look at the battery compartment for any past battery leakage. Remove the lens from the camera and make sure the aperture works smoothly and snappily. Look through the lens and check for any fungus growing on the elements. Finally check the front and rear elements for scratches or wear on the lens coating. Many people will tell you beforehand that there is a slight scratch on the lens “but it doesn’t affect the quality”. This may be so for most photography but if you are photographing into the sun (contre-jour) you will, at the worst get flares in the image and at the very least have reduced contrast. Stay away from these lenses if at all possible.

What lens to start with

A best film camera for beginner guide wouldn’t be complete without some lens guidance, so here it is. Most camera bodies will come with a ‘standard’ lens. This is a 50mm non-zoom lens (non-zoom lenses are called prime lenses) that is very close to the view of the human eye. They are usually very good quality with a wide aperture and an excellent lens to get started with before you start investing in wide angle, telephoto and zoom lenses. Start with the 50mm.

Some recommended cameras

Nikon FM

Nikon FM By NEDM64

The Nikon FM came out in 1977 and was manufactured for 5 years before being superseded by the FM2. This camera is totally manual (not a single automated setting to be seen) and is also mechanical. This means the tiny battery in the camera only operates the very basic light meter. If your battery fails then everything else will keep on running. This was invaluable to a pro and the FM and FM2 were workhorses that kept on running. My own personal FM (I got it at college in 1982) has seen thousands of rolls of film through it and been subjected to all sorts of camera un-friendly environments and it has kept on going.

During a photographic job where I was photographing an aluminium smelting plant, there was an extremely large generator with powerful magnets. I couldn’t use my Nikon F3 hp, which was my main working camera, in the same room because of its shutter being affected by the magnetic field. The FM continued to work without missing a beat. I do have to admit having the shutter replaced a few years later but that was because the attached motor drive had worn it out.

There are plenty of lenses available and it takes any Nikkor lens, except the latest versions that don’t have a physical aperture ring. Ally still has her original FM2 camera which saw hundreds of rolls of film go through it on the cruise ships she worked on, as well as her very first few weddings before moving onto medium format and being very well travelled after that. I still have my original FM and a Nikon F3hp too.

The other Nikon that is very similar is the FE and FE2. These have an auto setting on them for aperture priority (you choose the aperture and the camera sets the shutter speed automatically). Unlike the FM range these cameras have electromagnetically controlled shutters that need batteries to operate.

Image of FE by Edgar Bonet

Canon AE-1

When I was at college, this was the alternate camera to the Nikon FE . The AE-1 has an electromagnetically operated shutter and Shutter priority (you choose the aperture and the camera sets the shutter speed automatically). There was a second model called the AE-1 Program that had a full automatic mode (both aperture and shutter were controlled automatically). Obviously these cameras require batteries to operate.

These beautiful little cameras use the Canon FD range of lenses. Despite still going strong, they can be picked up for very little money.

The pro camera of this time was the Canon F1. A heavy duty camera that looked beautiful but weighed a ton. If you can find a good F1, they go for a lot of money, as most have had a hard professional life.

Image by WikiAndrea

Pentax k1000

The Pentax is very similar to the Nikon FM in that it is totally mechanical and manual and only needs a battery for the light meter. This camera was manufactured from 1976 to 1997 so there are rather a lot of second hand ones around in very good condition. Pentax lenses, while being of a very high quality, don’t attract the premium prices of Nikon or Canon. Therefore, the camera will cost you less in the long run when more accessories and lenses are required.

Look out for a good condition model as there are plenty to choose from.

Pentax K1000

Olympus OM1

The Olympus OM1 has a beautiful and tiny body and was originally compared to the Leica for size and quality. The OM series runs from the OM1 (totally manual) through to the OM4 (all singing and dancing program modes) as well as a basic OM10.

The OM1 MD model is the same as the OM1 but has been modified to take a motor drive.

The Zuiko lenses are excellent quality and like the Pentax system don’t attract the premium prices.

A lot of people with smaller hands prefer the ergonomics of the Olympus system.

Pic OM1 MD  By Steve Martin

Processing your film

You’ve got your camera, found your way through the tricky film loading, taken some awesome images and figured out how to rewind the film so you can open the back. Now you are ready to get your images developed. The best and most satisfying way to go about this is to process Black and White film yourself. I will be doing a how-to blog post tutorial on this very soon. I can smell the chemicals already!

Of course when you first start out you might want to concentrate on getting your photography technique and exposure correct and let somebody else sort out the processing for you. Of course you might have created the photographs using colour film. Either way, you would need to send it to a lab.

Most photographic labs will offer a service of scanning your film after processing. That way you can then just work on your images digitally.

In conclusion

The above, best film cameras for beginners list, are only my suggestions. Therefore, I would advise you to try a few cameras out if possible at local camera stores. Different cameras feel differently in your hands because everybody’s hands are different. Go with the one that feels right to you.

Buy a system you can grow with. Check out the availability and cost of lenses and other extras like motor drives and flash fittings etc. Are they easy and inexpensive to come by?

Decide on your budget but remember your biggest outlay will be your long-term film and processing cost.

In the end it just boils down to enjoying your photography. This and using a tool that you can feel is working with and not against you.

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Woza Moya Upcycling is a key part of Woza Moya and the Hillcrest AIDS Centre trust and not only brings in well needed funds for the centre but is also playing a huge role in the recycling of unwanted waste that would otherwise go to landfill. Have a look at the amazing products these recycling masters create!

Woza Moya & Hillcrest AIDS Centre Trust

In case you haven’t seen Part 1 of our Woza Moya post, here’s a quick rundown. Hillcrest AIDS Centre Trust and Woza Moya are a lifeline of support and hope to hundreds, (thousands if you include their dependents), of otherwise desperate people. All whilst masquerading as a beautiful little craft shop. Although specialising in traditional beadwork, they also sell all types of African art and craft. This includes  painting, sewing, wirework, crochet, pottery, fabric painting and woodwork. As well as this, repurposing and upcycling waste to make beautiful products.

The Masters of Woza Moya Upcycling

During our visit, we met Francis in the Upcycling Centre at Woza Moya / Hillcrest AIDS Centre Trust. Now Francis has the most amazing job for which he is perfect. He upcycles stuff! And when I say stuff, I mean all those random things that we think are useless and throw away.

Francis – Upcycling King

He is so incredibly creative he makes all sorts of beautiful house accessories, and bags out of anything – plastic, glass bottles, even old teabag packets are just a few examples. These are made into a variety of bags of different sizes, light fittings and lamp stands which then go up for sale in the shop! There was even a large box of bottle tops, awaiting such inspiration from Francis!

Glass Cutting Supremo Frank

We also met Frank, who painstakingly ‘cuts’ down old donated wine bottles with a hot and cold water process. The edges are filed down so they’re safe and these are then sold as drinking glasses and lights! Ingenious!

Frank – supremo glass upcycler

Entering Verna’s Magical Haberdashery Grotto!

Textiles are donated which are then painstakingly sorted by Verna and her team into colours and types. These are then sold on to those who can make items that then also go up for sale in the craft shop. To buy these textiles, are to us pennies and cents, but to a rural South African, it can still be a large amount.

Verna – Haberdashery and Textiles Queen

Supporting the Gogos (aka Granny Support Group)

Very sadly, much of the older generation have outlived their children and there are just under 2 million orphans due to the AIDS crisis in South Africa. Grandparents are left to look after their grandchildren, and understandably are ill-equipped to cope with the emotional, physical and financial issues that come with looking after children. Not only that, they could have as many as 20 grandchildren to support. So, the Hillcrest AIDS Centre Trust gives lessons to the grannies, (or gogos) in their local area, to empower, educate and uplift them in caring for their grandchildren.

In addition to all of this, the grounds are set in a garden nursery. The nursery features some of Francis’ upcycling shoes with great shrubs and flowers.

Upcycled shoes for sale in the nursery

Respite Unit

There is a 24-bed respite and care unit for those affected by the disease which is free – something that’s uncommon in South Africa. The number of patients who came out of there in the early days, was very limited. This was when HIV and AIDS were taboo and there was neither the understanding of the disease, nor the drugs to help. Now, it’s about 75% who come out and can go on leading a ‘normal’ life.

All the fundraising that Woza Moya and the HACT raise, goes towards the running of this.

Photography: Francis the king of the Upcycling Container and Glass Cutting Supremo Frank

In the Woza Moya upcycling centre, there was bright light streaming into the container that Francis is king of! This makes photographing quite difficult because of the extreme exposure values. Therefore, we had to position ourselves in a way that we weren’t picking up the super bright sunlit areas we knew would just blow out. In contrast, in the room of glass bottle supremo Frank, it was quite dark and small. To overcome this, we had to up the ISO on our cameras, as we were handholding and he was moving. Thankfully, the low light ability of digital SLRs now is exceptionally good. The little bit of grain you do get is easily removable in a Camera Raw converter or Photoshop. We both actually find, that a little bit of grain adds to the organic-ness, look and feel of an image.

Cut bottles to upcycle at Hillcrest AIDS Centre

We spent quite a while being shown around Woza Moya and photographing, but no images can do justice to the incredible work that the Woza Moya team are doing. As you can see, all the wonderful people involved in HACT and Woza Moya have a passion: a passion to empower and uplift those who have been affected in many ways by HIV / AIDS.

The post Woza Moya – A Beacon in South Africa’s HIV / AIDS Pandemic – Part 2 appeared first on ImageExplorers.

As with most of our Cyprus photography, the approach did not fill us with confidence about creating spectacular images however once there it was a different story. Beautiful rocks, a quiet stream and wonderful Cyprus blue sky had us “ooh-ing” and “aah-ing” all afternoon.

How to get there.

To find the gorge take the route out from Paphos about 16km at the start of the Akamas peninsula – it’s along the west coast and you’ll eventually pick up signs for Avakas Gorge. As you are approaching the steep drive down to the nature trail you will see a strange castle looking type building. This is a beautiful restaurant where you eat al fresco whilst being shaded by the vines. and overlooking spectacular surroundings hills and gorge. Great for a panoramic. Just remember to book beforehand. Their chips are amazing and gluten free!

The entrance to the nature trail to get Avakas Gorge is found just around the corner.

Ally photographing Avakas Gorge

Avakas Gorge Black and White

It is a lovely walk in an area that is a nature and wildlife lover’s paradise. Wear good shoes and if you can, take a tripod. The gorge itself is at the end of the trail and at our relatively slow pace I reckon this took about 40 minutes. Of course we were stopping to take photos along the way.

Experiment, experiment, experiment.

The gorge itself is beautiful and depending on the light you can get some stunning images. We both spent a long time experimenting with images (as well as waiting for other tourists to walk past out of the shot).

So what if the rocks don’t have the spectacular golden glow you see in the photographs? Our before and after tutorial will show you how to augment the little you have in the post production process.

Avakas Gorge rock wall

If there are a number of tourists a good trick is to put your camera on a tripod and take various shots of the same scene so that you can layer these images up in Photoshop and mask out the people on different layers until you have a people free image.

The post The amazing Avakas Gorge floating rock – Cyprus photography appeared first on ImageExplorers.

Cyprus has a bit of a reputation as either a party island or a place to lie and soak up the sun but there is so much more to see and photograph. The following are 2 areas on the south west coast near Paphos so grab your camera and battered fedora and come exploring with us.

Cyprus shipwreck at the Sea Caves

On our trip back from Paphos and heading in the general direction of where we had heard about the famous Cyprus shipwreck, we noticed an incredible sunset about to happen. Unfortunately we were still half a mile away from the sea but with lots of hard acceleration and zippy corners we turned around the last bend and there was the shipwreck exactly where we expected. Coming to a screeching halt, I grabbed my camera and jumped out the car whilst Tim found somewhere to leave the car. The sunset here was phenomenal with a very interesting sky, and we both came away very very happy with the pictures we’d made.

Cyprus shipwreck at Sea Caves

I was shooting directly into the sunset and needed to stop down the lens for a reasonable depth of field. I have a pretty steady hand but when I feel the shutter speed is too low I usually find a rock or sturdy tree branch that serves as a makeshift tripod. We bracketed these in case we needed to use multi-exposures. This would allow us to get details in both the sun and cloud highlights as well as in the very dark shadows of the water. We needn’t have worried as we managed to pull detail back using techniques in the RAW file converter. (See how we did it on this picture of the Hyde Park building in the before and after section.)

Tombs of the Kings (but nothing to do with kings)!

This is a UNESCO World Heritage Site about 2 km from Paphos Harbour. Many of the tombs date back to the 4th century BC. It has nothing to do with kings. The name comes purely from the magnificence of the tombs. We went here not far from closing time but were told we’d have enough time to walk around. As it was just a minimal charge of €2.50 we decided to go in. It turns out that if you want to take time to photograph you do need a lot longer! There are a lot of ruins obviously, some more interesting than others. But if you go down underneath some of them there are some amazing images to be made. One in particular, with lots of pillars, with the golden light coming through was beautiful. To create more atmosphere, we kicked up some of the dust so it was hanging in the air.

Tombs of the Kings

To avoid being locked in we rushed our image making. It was late in the day and there were very few other tourists around. We photographed the last few pictures and ran for the gate only to discover that the attendant had already left. It turns out that the turnstile will still allow you out! Excellent photography tip: go late in the day and you can shoot towards sunset when everyone else has left and still get out.

You can’t beat a good Cyprus shipwreck and an old Tomb for some really moody images.

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If like us you can’t photograph enough of mechanical vehicles, then this is the place for you.

A very English pass-time is to wander around a farmer’s field whilst grease and soot covered people display their beautiful, and often shiny, machines. The one we went to was Aldham Old Time Rally. However, the exhibitors move around, many of them week to week, over the course of the summer.

So what is it?

This is essentially an exhibition of a variety of steam and mechanical vehicles.

So what do you do there? What we love and that’s to take photographs. However some people are there for lesser reasons but we’re going to ignore them, and concentrate on the photography!

Train Handle Glow

Tips for photographing steam

The first thing about photographing a steam machine is obvious, but so often overlooked. You need to have steam in the photograph. Steam engines seem to have a life of their own breathing fire and smoke and this is what we want to capture in our photographs.

We both have different ways of shooting. Tim tends to create images by getting up as close as possible and photographing wide, usually with a 24 mm lens, but I tend to zoom right in using my 24-70 mm lens at the 70 mm end to get the compressed perspective that these short telephoto lengths do so beautifully. If there is anything with a flame we try and show the flame in the image as this is the heart of the engine.

Steam Rally traction engine close up

Brecon Beacon Railway

Very often, with a stationary object, you need to set up your image and then wait, with your finger poised until the appropriate steam cloud breathes into life!

Once in RAW, you can also augment the steam by using an adjustment brush and increase the lightness of the steam using Exposure, and really bring the steam to life by increasing micro-contrast by sliding the Clarity up to the right.

We’ve found that wherever we go, owners are so proud of their machines and if you strike up a conversation with them, they are often very happy for you to climb aboard and photograph their pride and joy enabling you to get photographs that the other photographers aren’t able to.

Steam rallies aren’t the only place to get your steam fix. Wales (UK) especially, has some beautiful steam railways where you can get up close and personal to your heart’s content of pipes, pistons and steam.

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